Area 49

3D printers use digital models to create three-dimensional objects by depositing plastic filament (PLA) one layer at a time in a process called fused deposition modeling. This page shows how to 3D print the file, from start to finish and also notes some pointers for quality prints. Check out our Workshops & Events page for dates and times for trainings and to register for them. 

Users may set their own prints on the 3D printers after completing a training and signing the 3D Printers Safety Agreement, but must schedule them ahead of time at groupstudy.charlotte.edu. Any unscheduled prints may be stopped and removed from the printer if someone else has scheduled that time. Users are asked to limit the scheduling of prints to one print per week, with the exception of single prints that will run for a longer period. If the user does not check in within 15 minutes of the scheduled start time, the scheduled job will be automatically removed from the calendar. Check our 3D Printing Policy for more information.

• The 3D printer extrusion heads are heated to at least 210°C (410°F), even during standby mode, and that touching the print head can result in serious burns.
• Users are allowed to insert and remove filament from the print head and any tangled or clumped filament from the build plate, but should seek the assistance of Makerspace staff for more complex troubleshooting issues. 
• 3D printers contain multiple moving parts. Interfering with normal operation may damage the printer. In an emergency, turn off the printer using the printer’s main power switch.
• -Fill out and post the Job Status Form on the 3D printer while using it and remove my print in a timely manner once printing is complete.
• Makerspace staff will pause the print when the Makerspace closes for the night and will restart it upon reopening.
• Limit 3D prints to those that are for non-commercial purposes only.
• Comply with all tutorial and operations instructions given by Makerspace staff.

Slicing Your Print (Preparing the File)

1. Open your .stl or .obj file in Cura. The Lulzbot edition can be used to slice prints for all the LulzBot printers.
2. Check the weight and runtime in the bottom right corner. Multiply the weight in grams by $0.25 to get your printing cost, though it may vary slightly.
3. Choose the settings.

• Printer (select or install the printer you wish to use)
  • LulzBot Taz Workhorse: TAZ Workhorse | SE | 0.50mm | Nickle Plated Copper
  • LulzBot TAZ Pro S: TAZ Pro M175 v2 | 0.50mm | Carbide Coated Copper 

  • LulzBot TAZ Pro Dual Extruder: TAZ Pro Pro Dual | 0.50mm| Hardest SST

• Material Type
  • Lulzbot: PLA PolyLite
• Infill percentage and type
  • 20% infill for most prints, but judge it based on how sturdy the print needs to be.
• Speed/Quality
  • High detail setting: for curves or details
  • Standard or high-speed setting: level or smooth prints
• Supports: If the print has a 45º overhang, use supports.​

Detail Level & Supports

High Detail	Standard Detail
Needs Supports	No supports

• Build Plate Adhesion:
  • Raft: A thick layer that stops warping (will prolong print time)
  • Skirt: A thin line around the print area that extrudes any old color and ensures a smooth filament flow
  • Brim: A thin layer that prevents warping by holding the bottom edges to the build plate.

Source: 762fd12ae2f1e6ec723ef22d69985f099144b206_1_690x115.jpg

• For the Dual Extruder

  1. Set the printer to the Dual Extruder Printer listed above. Click open file, select the 2 files you wish to print at the same time.

  2. Once the models have both loaded in, set the nozzle for each.

     1. Right click on the model and selecting either Hot end 1 or Hot end 2 checkbox. They must be on different hot ends to print dual extrusion style. 

  3. After you have set the hot ends, select all models (do this by either right clicking and selecting the option in the mouse menu or by using the hot key ctrl+a) right click on the models, and select Merge Models.

     • This will combine the models so they will print together.

  4. Set Custom settings.

     1. Under Custom>Travel-Combing Mode Within Infill

        • Check yes to enable Avoid Printed Parts When Traveling

     2. Under Custom>Travel-check yes to enable Z Hop When Retracted

     3. Under Custom>Dual Extrusion - check yes to Enable Prime Tower

4. Save your print with your NinerNet Username to find it easier. When you get to the Makerspace, save this file to the SD card for that printer. An SD card adapter is available.

On the 3D Printer

Loading/Unloading Filament

Filament sizes:

• LulzBot TAZ Workhorse: 2.85mm
• LulzBot TAZ Pro Dual Extruder: 2.85mm
• LulzBot TAZ Pro S: 1.75mm

LulzBot TAZ Pro Dual Extruder & LulzBot TAZ Pro S

1. On touchscreen select Menu> Move Axis > All (to the right of X,Y,Z). This will automatically shift to the home position. 

2. Select Menu > Change Filament > 200° C High 
   1. For Dual Extruder select Extruder 1 or 2 before selecting temperature.
3. Loosen thumb screw on front of extruder
4. On touchscreen select Continuous and unload filament. Hit Continuous again to stop.
   1. DO NOT let go of the loose end of the filament when you take it out. This causes the roll to become tangled, which can cause issues with future prints. Every roll of filament has several sets of two adjacent holes on the outside of the spool.
   2. Thread the loose end of the filament through both holes and place the filament back in the cabinet (see images below).
5. Load the new filament spool on holder and find the end. Cut the end at a 45º angle for loading ease and so the extruder won't jam. Ensure that the filament roll has no tangles or overlaps.
   1. For TAZ Workhorse or TAZ Pro Dual Extruder use 2.85mm filament
   2. For TAZ Pro S use 1.75mm filament
6. On touchscreen, select Continuous and feed new filament into extruder. Hit Continuous again to stop the feed.

LulzBot TAZ Workhorse

1. Loosen the thumb screw on the tool head by turning it to the left
2. Using front knob, go to Change Filament > Unload Filament
3. Wait for filament to unload and pull out old filament.
   1. DO NOT let go of the loose end of the filament when you take it out. This causes the roll to become tangled, which can cause issues with future prints. Every roll of filament has several sets of two adjacent holes on the outside of the spool.
   2. Thread the loose end of the filament through both holes and place the filament back in the cabinet (see images below).
4. Once filament is removed, go back in the menu to Motion>Auto Home and allow that to run.
5. In menu go to Change Filament > Load Filament
6. Load the new filament spool on holder and find the end. Cut the end at a 45º angle for loading ease and so the extruder won't jam. Ensure that the filament roll has no tangles or overlaps.
7. Using front knob, select Continue and load filament with but point toward the back of the extruder. 
8. Pinch the idler latch forward while filament loads to help it feed into the extruder. .
9. Once filament is loaded, tighten thumb screw.

Setting the print

1. Insert the SD card or USB drive
2. Follow steps based on what printer you are using:
   1. On the TAZ Workhorse Printers, unload and reload filament by following the instructions above under Loading/Unloading Filament: LulzBot TAZ Workhorse.
   2. On the TAZ Pro S Printers, set the extruder temperature to 220 C.
3. Select "Print using SD" or "USB" and select your file.
4. Watch until the first layer is complete to ensure there are no defects. If you observe defects, stop the print and adjust your print settings.
5. Stay with the print for the first half hour, which is usually when things go wrong. Check the print every hour after that.
6. Once the print is finished, bring the build plate to a temperature of 40º C to remove the print.
7. Bring the print to the Makerspace Monitor, who will weigh it in grams and enter cost information into our library system. Pay for your print at the Circulation Desk on the first floor.

Pausing the print

Your print will be paused by the Makerspace Monitor overnight. Currently, the extruder will lift automatically, but if it does not, keep these things in mind:

• When pausing a print:
  •  Lift the extruder away from the print immediately. The longer it is near the print, the more it will melt the surface. To pause, push the button on the printer and navigate to "pause."
  • Make a note on the 3D printing poster of how much you lifted the extruder, so it can be resumed at the correct point.
• When resuming a print:
  • Make sure it aligns properly
  • Wipe the nozzle of burnt filament, whether you see any or not. Place a sheet of paper or cloth over the print directly under the extruder. Grab the cold filament from above the extruder and gently push it down into the extruder. Wipe off the extruder nozzle with a cloth to remove any remnants.

• Take note of the different axis names and how the axes move:

  • X axis: left to right

  • Y axis: front to back

  • Z axis: up and down 

• Removing prints:
  1. The correct method is to position the scraper at a corner of the print using your less dominant hand, and continuously tap the butt of the scraper using a larger solid (preferably metal) tool like a wrench. You should see the scraper moving beneath the print.
  2. If no progress is made from method #1, then spray or apply 50+ percent alcohol around the print. Let it sit for about 10 seconds and re-do method #1.
• Don't start a short print at the end of the day. If the print can be completed in a single day, start early to avoid pausing.
• If individual print lines aren't sticking together, the Z-axis needs to be adjusted to smooth the layers.
• Always orient the print so that there is the least possible support generated. It may be right-side up, but it may also be upside down or on its side.
• Always take off supports and rafting before weighing the item. Support material is not included in the cost. There are multiple tools near the 3D printers that are appropriate for finishing a print.
• If the supports are too dense to remove without destroying the print, reprint the item. Go into the "Custom Settings" in Cura and reduce the support density by 10-15%. Enable the interface if it is not already enabled. Reduce it to .75mm and print the item.
• Always check your print periodically. If something goes wrong, it will likely happen within the first 30 minutes, but other issues can arise later. The photo below shows what can happen if you leave for too long without checking on the print's progress. Notice that filament can collect around the extruder, which will ruin the print. The longer this continues, the higher the likelihood of extruder damage.

• If you are experiencing oddities in your print, head over to Simplify3D's Print Quality Troubleshooting Guide or seek assistance from the Makerspace Monitor.

Are Supports needed?

Lay the model on the flattest side to reduce the support filament used and the print time. Overhangs over 45 degrees will require supports. Check the slicer program, also. Areas beneath the overhang will be red if supports are needed.

Supports Type

Fig. 1. Lattice Support Patterns. Retrieved from Ultimaker

• Concentric: Good for models shaped as a sphere, tube, pipe and hollow prints.
• Lines: Easily removable for tricky holes or flat surfaces. Use for T and H-shaped overhangs.
• Zig Zag: Similar to lines but are easier to remove because lines are connected. Use for T and H-shaped overhangs. 

Tree Supports

Fig. 2. Tree Supports. Retrieved from Flashforge.com

Use tree supports for dynamic shapes. They are much easier to remove from smaller areas without breaking the print. (All3DP.com)

Setting Tree Supports in Cura

• To add to your settings: Settings >configure setting visibility > experimental > check all boxes about tree supports > Close.
• To enable tree supports: Position the model then enable tree supports. Custom > check to show Experimental > Tree Support settings. Uncheck the supports box on the main settings interface. Leaving it checked, it will generate both regular supports and tree supports.

Support Density

Distance between support structure lines

• Higher values generate more support, take longer to print, and are harder to remove. 
• Lower values generate less support, take less time to print, and are easier to remove.
• The larger and heavier the overhang, the more support density needed. 8%-15% support density is recommended.

Advanced Support Settings

Support Placement

You can pick where Cura will generate supports:

• Everywhere (including on the model)
• Build plate only (only touching the bed). Build plate only is recommended for hollow, pipe-shaped models.

Z Distance

The gap between the top and bottom of the supports and the model.

• .2mm - .5mm support Z distance is recommended.
• This gap prevents supports from melting to the model and makes it easier to remove supports. Large gaps will not give filament a supported base, and will cause the print to fail.

Support Interface

Creates a layer between the support and the model. This leaves a smooth looking finish on the model. Always reduce it to at least  .75mm and increase the Z distance in order to remove it easily.

Additional Tips

• Use glue, not rafts, if you notice the brim and model are rising to decrease the amount of filament wasted. When using glue, always clean the bed when you are finished.

• Don't reprint a failed print using the same settings as before.

• Always use a brim for small models or when you notice the bottom rising. Without a brim, prints can easily move out of place especially they are tall. If the bottom rises, stop it immediately and add a brim or raft. The print has already failed.

• Before saving your print to a flash drive always see it in Layer View to see exactly how the build plate adhesion and support will look. View drop-down menu > choose Layer View > wait for it to render.

If your print isn't turning out as planned, take a look at our 3D Printing Troubleshooting page!